Edinburgh in Two Days: Must-See Sights, Food, and History
Day 1
After landing in Edinburgh and quickly passing through customs, my first order of business was to drop my bags at the Grassmarket Hotel. Located just 30 minutes from the airport, I chose the Grassmarket due to its central location and proximity to the Royal Mile.
In the 15th and 16th centuries, the Grassmarket was a bustling hub where farmers sold their goods beneath the looming shadow of Edinburgh Castle. But by 1660, it had gained a darker reputation. The square outside my hotel was once the site of public executions—hangings were a grim, near-daily occurrence. The condemned were paraded through the city to the gallows, often accused of crimes ranging from theft to witchcraft. Many of the Covenanters, staunch Presbyterians who resisted royal interference in their religion, met their end here. You can find a memorial to them nearby.
In the 18th century the Grassmarket became a popular spot for drinking and socializing with numerous pubs lined the road. Today you find a very similar scene with live music pouring out of the taverns, people gathering for whisky or beer, and haggis at nearly every restaurant.
Once my luggage was dropped at the hotel, it was time to explore. Exiting the hotel I turned the corner and found W Bow Street, also known as Victoria Street. This short cobblestone curved road is adorned with colorful banners crisscrossing above your head. The one road is everything you’re hoping for when you first begin exploring Edinburgh. While the shops in the area were mostly touristy, they were housed in brightly colored buildings and absolutely a must photograph spot during your visit. There’s also a spot for fish and chips called Berties… I wish I could recommend it, but honestly I would pass it up. It felt really touristy with inflated prices. You’d be better off going down to the grassmarket or a bit further out to find an authentic pub that serves fish and chips.
After wandering the streets around the hotel I decided it was time for lunch. A few buildings from the hotel, I found The Last Drop. My first Scottish meal had to include Haggis, Neeps, and Tatties. Surprisingly, it was delicious. Haggis is an interesting dish, but I held tight to the philosophy of “when in Rome”. Think of haggis as a rite of passage as you begin your journey to Scotland. You can also think of it like an American hot dog. It’s an American institution at a ballpark, delicious with mustard and accompanied with a cold beer, you never think about what it is made of. Think of haggis the same way. You can get fried haggis with a lovely whiskey sauce in the Grassmarket at the Fiddlers Arms. It’s delicious. I promise.
Fiddlers Arms is an easy-going pub where you can linger with a cold beer and people watch. Locals casually chatter while drinking beer, and live music is plentiful. To my delight, a Scottish couple struck up a conversation with me. I was tickled to learn that her name was Claire, and her husband Stevie frequently used the word “aye.” They were a wealth of knowledge regarding the history of Scotland and its relationship with both England and Ireland was endless. It truly is the people who make the place. My day didn’t come alive until I was able to sit and enjoy a good conversation with these delightful locals.
Day 2:
On my second day, I woke up jet lagged at the crack of mid-morning and made my way to the nearest coffee shop. I opted for a strong black coffee with a blueberry muffin. From there, I made my way through Waverley Train Station down the hill and back up again until I reached Calton Hill.
Calton is a must-do on your list. While there, I found a park bench in front of the Dugald Stewart Monument. The view from this spot was spectacular, a perfect spot to watch the sunrise or sunset. The clock atop The Balmoral was telling the story of time, and its towering companions echoed days of old that suddenly didn’t feel quite so far away. Remnants of a vibrant medieval city and a thriving Victorian era were touchable.
Making my way down the hill, I passed the Robert Burns monument and Regent Street. I cut through Calton Burial Grounds and made notes of names found on gravestones for future characters in unwritten novels.
As I turned a corner a large palace appeared in front of me. Hollyrood is the official residence in Scotland of King Charles. While I’m a fan of the monarchy (I blame this on growing up in Canada, which is part of the commonwealth) I elected to bypass the palace tour. I was in Scotland and I couldn’t deny the influence of William Wallace with the voice of Mel Gibson:
“Run and you’ll live – at least a while. And dying in your beds many years from now, would you be willing to trade all the days from this day to that for one chance, just one chance to come back here and tell our enemies that they may take our lives, but they’ll never take our freedom”
Although the 1995 film was a fantastic piece of cinema, the famous last words of William Wallace while being tortured were “Freedom!” . And so I kept walking, turning my back on the castle and heading towards the Royal Mile. I left the royal souvenir shops for the windows sporting gifts that represent each clan.
The Royal Mile was one of my favorite places and I couldn’t wipe the silly smile off my face as the bagpipers played along the streets in kilts for the tourists. The iconic red phone booths line the street just waiting to be photographed, and St. Giles Cathedral is a spectacular place to rest your feet. Be prepared to slowly stroll the Royal Mile. You’ll love it.
There’s no doubt there’s more adventures to be had in Edinburgh and I’m eager for my next trip. For now, I hope you enjoy this little taste of Scotland until your own feet land on the cobblestone and you get a real taste of haggis!
Until next time le gach deagh dùrachd (with warmest regards) as my good Scottish friend Stuart would say.
